Showing posts with label Pennsylvania Trip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pennsylvania Trip. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Mt. Vernon: Reflections on "Patriotism"

Carnations laid by veterans at George Washington's Tomb

Yesterday was another beautiful day along the Potomac. As we headed out toward Mt. Vernon, the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the foliage was stunning and the traffic was light (it being a holiday). One wanted to sigh with contentment.


This was actually my fourth visit to Mt. Vernon. I first went in June 1976 with a church youth group. Then later with my parents and my sister, Martha. Then again in 2005, when I went with my three older children. Each visit had been special in its own way, and Monday's visit was no exception because I was there with Mark (who had never before been to Washington).

Washington's Greenhouse

Each visit was also different because, in each case, I was at a different stage in my life. When I went as a recent high school graduate in the Bicentennial year, I was full of patriotism and an appreciation of our nation's history. I felt connected to it. It was something I had grown up with, read about and even fantasized about. I loved history. 


Almost thirty years later, I had gone with my three older children. I was anxious to share the nation's capital with them. I had homeschooled my eldest, placing an emphasis on American history, and had introduced her to the American Girl books when she was a young girl living in Canada. She fell in love with Felicity, the girl from colonial Williamsburg, and I promised Sarah that I would take her to Williamsburg before she graduated from high school.

As it happened, her senior choir trip was to Washington. I arranged to fly out with Adam and Hannah, then meet Sarah at the end of her trip, whereupon we would then explore DC and Williamsburg together. It was an immensely fun and memorable experience.

Womens' Slave Quarters


As we drove down George Washington Parkway toward Mt. Vernon yesterday morning, I reflected upon how this trip was different from my previous trips in a number of ways. Mainly, I realized that my head was in a totally different place than it had ben on previous visits to Washington. I was out as a gay man, but I had also come out of Mormonism, with its belief system that very deliberately intertwined religion and patriotism. 

Mormons believe that God raised up the Founding Fathers and that the Constitution as written in 1788 was divinely inspired (thus leading them to distrust any evolution from the document as originally written). They believe that the United States has a unique mission to fulfill in the history of the world and especially in the "last days" leading up to the second coming of Christ. They believe that each person who came to the Americas was inspired by God so to do. To say that their theology is exceptionalist and triumphalist would be a vast understatement. They also believe that Mormons will play a unique role in the history of the United States; that the day will come when the "elders of Israel" (the Mormon priesthood) will save the Constitution (whatever that means) in a day of great peril.

Blacksmith


I have previously written on this blog about some of the practical implications of this theology, i.e., how it affects rank-and-file members, particularly those in Utah. But what I came to realize yesterday is how much almost 30 years of buying into this way of thinking had warped and twisted my sense of history and patriotism. I had come to deliberately avoid any outward signs of patriotism and had also guarded myself against feeling any sense of "patriotism" lest I "behave" and feel how others expected me to behave and to feel what others expected me to feel. 




My feelings about patriotism, my feelings about and attitude toward our nation's history had been appropriated by Mormonism and had thereby been perverted, conservatized, and communalized. In this regard, yesterday was an exercise in recovery and healing. Not just at Mt. Vernon, but at monuments and memorials that we visited later that day - about which I will write in subsequent posts.

Washington's Original Tomb

As Mark and I concluded our tour of Mt. Vernon after having visited Washington's tomb where there were volunteers handing out carnations to veterans to lay at the tomb's entrance (see lead photo), we talked about what Washington's legacy means to Americans today. Yes, he was a great general, yes he was our first president, yes he guided our nation through its critical first years as a republic - but what would Washington say to Americans today? What does his example of freeing his slaves upon his death mean to us today?

Washington was a revolutionary. He did things that had never been done before. He was not a slave to old ways of thinking. He was not a "conservative." He was a bold leader who had a vision and who remained faithful to that vision, a vision that was clearly even bolder than circumstances of his time would countenance (exemplified by his freeing his slaves upon his death). He was a man who worked to build consensus in order to govern. 

These are all qualities we need in leaders today, and this, I submit, is Washington's living legacy to a diverse, thriving, living America. I think this was reflected in some of what we saw at Mt. Vernon yesterday: a Japanese-American mansion guide; the first-generation Korean-American woman who was ahead of us in the line to enter the mansion; the Latino persons whom we saw, as well as people of other races. These people weren't there because their ancestors had fought in the Revolution or had been passengers on the Mayflower. These people weren't there, I imagine, because they were Christian or because of something Washington did in 1777 or 1789. They were there, I submit, because of what Washington's legacy means to the America of today; and that is why, I realized, I was there as well.

Healing.

Brandywine


Sunday morning started out with breakfast at Nudy's in Wayne - quite the favorite place among the locals. I had the pumpkin bread french toast. My thinking was that I wanted to eat something that I'd never had before, that I'd never seen on a menu before. I enjoyed it. At the time. But the gluten made me miserable for the rest of the day. Sorry: no happily ever after there, as much as one might like there to be.


After breakfast, we headed for Brandywine River Museum which showcases the work of Andrew Wyeth, his father N. C. Wyeth, his son Jamie Wyeth as well as N.C.'s teacher, Howard Pyle. I had encountered Wyeth years ago and loved his work, particularly those paintings he did which depicted Pennsylvania stone barns and weathered houses. When I worked for my dad in the early 80's, just out of college and living in my own house, I acquired a framed print of Andrew Wyeth's "The Quaker" (see below) which hung in my living room over the fireplace. When I joined the Mormon Church and went on a mission to France, I sold this, along with a number of other pieces of art and furniture. I regret that I don't still have this work (which is now selling for anywhere between $3000 and $6000 on the Internet).


As it happened, Mark was/is also a lover of Wyeth's works. So we knew that we would have to visit Brandywine. And we weren't disappointed.

The exterior of the museum, which is housed in an old grist mill

Shutters on the museum walls

"The Nation Makers" by Howard Pyle

"They Use to Drill Every Evening," illustration by Howard Pyle for "The Soldiering of Beniah Stidham." I liked this painting because it depicted boys being boys. Young men, yes, but still boys. Mischievous. Idealistic. Hopeful. Funloving.

"Traveling In the Olden Time" by Howard Pyle, 1886. An illustration for Harper's.

Illustration for Ladies Home Journal by Howard Pyle, 1896. The scene as depicted is at Valley Forge.



My favorite paintings in the museum were a series done by Jamie Wyeth - Andrew's son - depicting Rudolph Nureyev. Stunning. I thought perhaps I would be able to find images of the paintings on the Internet (photography was prohibited in the gallery), but all I could find was this one:


First thought: Stunning.

Second thought: Damn. I should have taken pictures of the other paintings. No one would have ever known.

Sigh.

It was a fun time. Rachel took the lead photo, above, and I took this one of Rachel. Beautiful.


After saying goodbye to Rachel, we headed on south to Washington, D.C., ready for our next adventure.

Our hotel in Foggy Bottom, next to George Washington University campus.

Townhomes in the vicinity of Dupont Circle

Closing thought: I didn't do a lot of obsessive advanced planning for this trip. I was determined just to let it happen. (Plus, I have been to Washington a number of times and am pretty familiar with the city.) We had thought that we might spend the better part of Saturday in Philadelphia proper, but that didn't happen, for various reasons. We/I let things unfold, trying to stay in the moment, to enjoy what life proffered us. The result? We had a wonderful time with Rachel in areas close to where she lives, enjoying Amish Country, Valley Forge, King of Prussia Mall, Brandywine Museum and just hanging out. It was a good lesson for me.

Monday, November 11, 2013

Valley Forge and Philadelphia


Following on yesterday's post, we eventually made our way to the Visitor's Center, saw a short film, then drove around the park, stopping to see the little house that was George Washington's headquarters during the winter encampment (1777-78).





After a late lunch with Rachel, we dropped her off at her nanny house so that she could get ready for a regional church dance she would be attending that night in New York City. We went back to the King of Prussia Mall to check out a pen store there, then back to the hotel for some down time. (All these places were within a few miles of each other.)

Saturday evening, we went into Philadelphia to meet Tom (whom we had met on our Corsican cycling trip) and Michael for drinks at (what used to be) the Bellevue Hotel near Walnut and Broad. It wasn't until later during our conversation that Tom pointed out that this was the place where Legionnaires' Disease broke out in the late 70's. The hotel was forced to close because no one would stay there. So far as I'm aware, however, we made it through the next hour or so without contracting anything (except, perhaps, for a slight case of inebriation).


From the Bellevue, we walked to Tinto, a Basque restaurant, where we had a great meal and even better conversation. It was a fun, fun evening.


I'll write about yesterday in my next post. We're now in Washington and are getting ready to go out for breakfast. Today's agenda: Mt. Vernon, Monuments and Memorials.

Sunday, November 10, 2013

Like in an Andrew Wyeth Painting


We had a wonderful day yesterday that started off with a visit to a farmer's market here in Wayne, where I had my first cronut - a confection that has been called "the illegitimate child of a croissant and a Krispy Kreme donut. They are apparently all the rage in New York and elsewhere. It was good ... but I won't be heartbroken if they never become available in Salt Lake.

After the farmer's market, Mark, Rachel and I took a leisurely walk up and down Wayne's town center, stopping in at a Presbyterian church that was having a Christmas bazar. 


I can't remember the last time I went to a Christmas bazar. You never see them in Utah - perhaps because of the overwhelming predominance of LDS churches there, who never hold fundraising events. I may have gone to one while we lived in Vancouver, Canada. But going in yesterday brought back memories of my childhood, how every year St. Theresa's would hold a bazar in the gym of our parochial school across the street from our house in Salem, Illinois with all kinds of baked goods, crafts, etc. It was something I took for granted as a part of life back then ...



From Wayne, we headed to Valley Forge National Historic Park. It was a beautiful, brisk autumn day. Fortunately, Rachel directed us to the end of the park that was the furthest away from the visitors' center. I say "fortunately" because had she not done this, we probably wouldn't have stumbled upon what became a highlight of our trip so far.

After we drove across a covered bridge, we meandered down a road an approached an old house that was identified as General Stirling's headquarters. It wasn't open to the public and had obviously been abandoned for some time. Across the road was an old stone barn. We stopped, got out of the car and wandered around for 20 minutes or so, taking pictures. Mark particularly loved it, saying "I feel like I'm in an Andrew Wyeth painting." 










I LOVE this picture of Rachel and me



It was a beautiful experience, being there on that beautiful fall morning, taking in the spirit of this old place, a large part of the charm of which was engendered by the fact that no one else was there and the buildings had been abandoned, leaving only the essence of the history of the buildings.

I'll save a description of Valley Forge, as well as our night out on the town in Philly last night, for the next post. Today, we're off to breakfast with Rachel, then we're going to the Brandywine Andrew Wyeth museum in Chadds Ford - about a 30-minute drive from here (Wayne). After that, we'll take Rachel home and head southwest to Washington. Another beautiful day here!

View from our hotel room balcony this morning here in Wayne